Friday, July 10, 2020
The term "freshie" is used nowadays to describe light aquatic or sporty fragrances, specifically those created in the 90's and later. Dunhill Edition could be considered a "freshie", but in a very old school style of the 80's. It has the dryness and transparency of today's fresh fragrances, but none of their unisex appeal. I've read reviews written by women who regularly wear men's colognes, who say that Dunhill Edition is simply too masculine for them to wear. I've also read the same kind of comments by women regarding Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme and Grey Flannel.
Dunhill Edition is not a powerhouse fragrance because it's not heavy, but it has a bold, herbal dryness that follows the tradition of very old school classics like YSL Pour Homme (the 1971 release) and Moustache by Rochas. It is loaded with dry herbal notes like sage and thyme, but it also has very strong dry spices like nutmeg and clove to give it that 80's punch. The nutmeg and clove are the strongest notes in Edition, so this is a super spicy fragrance. It has a strong moss base which adds even more macho goodness and plunks it down it firmly in the 80's. A big whomp of vetiver adds earthiness, bitterness and staying power to this scent.
I don't think dry, transparent fragrances ever go out of style, even if they have qualities from an earlier time, and for that reason, I consider Dunhill Edition to be a classic scent. I could see some of today's men who gravitate to fresh scents like Acqua di Gio or L'Eau d'Issey enjoying this, though they'll be taken aback at first by how mature and utterly masculine it smells. Due to its high spice, vetiver and moss content, Edition has excellent longevity, as it lasts for over 8 hours for me. Sillage is fairly strong but transparent and diffuse, so it doesn't batter you over the head like most powerhouse fragrances do.
MY RATING: 8.5/10